Before the Grass Comes In, Singing.
(Press PLAY above to hear it read aloud.)
Sunlight soaks the curtains now till five six seven o’clock golding everything grateful for warmth so late in the day the bones of beech leaves shiver, relief the fields are flooded with amber lighting the way for geese to settle, and begin, bills busy against the softening ground tugging in the season’s green any day now. I hear them honking more in my jaw than my ear, a hunger pang for one last soundless meal, here, in the muds of March muted before the grass comes in, singing. I go to the pantry and everything there is gleaming too, with that same long light skins of summer - butternut, garlic, onion fall away from flesh, somehow still supple as the butterfat chunks of lamb brown to toffee and porcini, little fawns, paint the broth as blonde as sundown. I remember floating on my back in the tea-colored pond flax hair fanning, the snapping turtle brushing the backs of my hay-skinned knees she was so old, she was brand new. I blow out all the candles eat a bowl in silent darkness timeless as a seed in soil a hundred years, resting ready when I hear the horns of flowers coming.
It’s not salad days yet. Can we have one more week of stew?
This really was one of the best stews I’ve ever made - the alchemy of everything in the root cellar turning into a mirror for the quiet, golden light of March. I might make it again this weekend to keep me warm until things really start to green up.
Early Spring Lamb Stew
Porcini broth for liquid amber in the mug.
INGREDIENTS
Listen to this episode with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Appetites to listen to this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.